RAPID CITY, SD — Often in life I’m reminded of the wisdom of my family: that the best food often comes from overlooked places. Oftentimes it can be difficult in this country for a restaurant to split the difference between good food and a good image, and so often we can see that businesses, especially serving the cuisine of other cultures, sacrifice one or the other. While this nation is a melting pot, that can sadly mean the sacrifice of one’s history as often as it can mean the addition of it. Either the aesthetics appeal to American sensibilities and the taste follows or the taste appeals and the business is perceived as “niche”.
Ma Cualli, a newcomer to Rapid City challenges this “one or the other” notion though. Founded by Mario Solorio and Teresa Núñez, the Restaurant is the culmination of a family generations in the making– moving between California, New Mexico, Colorado, and North Dakota before finally coming to rest in the beauty of the Black hills, the family’s efforts have led them here and to finding a balance between home and here.
The restaurant itself is a mix of the modern design, focusing on dark colors offset by warm neon and lacquered woodgrain, which American audiences often find appealing, and Mexican cuisine which though perhaps tuned to a less heat-tolerant palette, is still essentially Mexican. The mix between delicious drinks (including some of the best Agua De Jamaica I have had the pleasure to drink) both alcoholic and not appeals to both a casual lunch, a celebratory dinner, or a comfortable barside hangout. The selection of food items on the menu is equally appealing, a mix of favorites and new renditions for curious patrons: burritos, nachos, enchiladas, and for those with dietary restrictions, a small selection of vegetarian options.
While perhaps not as extensive as other eateries, what Ma Cualli lacks in breadth they more than make up for in the skillful execution of what it does offer. The meat is tender, sauces are flavorful, and the side dishes, the traditional refried beans and rice are executed as perfectly as I have ever seen. Guacamole is made tableside fresh and to the diners’ specifications, providing an element of show to the meal which displays the impressive skill of the servers in addition to being absolutely delicious.
My only issue if I were pushed to have one is a lack of heat on the menu– while absolutely not required in good Mexican, spice adds a dimension to the flavor of a dish which makes its enjoyment more necessarily paced and multi-sensory, and while it might have just been my and my guests’ choice of dishes and relative tolerance for heat, it was a bit disappointing to not “feel” the flavor as we were eating.
Outside of that however, I believe quality still wins out in the case of Ma Cualli, as what I can see in this case is not a sacrifice of culture but a true understanding of the synthesis between both– providing old favorites and some new palette-broadening experiences which shows the strength of a people bringing the knowledge, history, and cuisine of their home to ours.
